After more than 30 years since establishing of Saga Design Centre, 20 years of Fur Vision events and hundreds of fur techniques later, you might think that everything would be invented and tried already. But no. This year Saga Furs is bringing new ideas to the table once again. Considering that the whole year 2020 has been something that no one has seen before thanks to Covid-19 pandemic and travel restrictions all over the world, Fur Vision 2021 is not canceled, just presented in a whole new way. We chitchat with Emma Vivian, Head of Design and Innovation at Saga Furs and asked her few things about what to expect from Fur Vision 2021.
What does it take for technique to be appreciated by the high-end luxury and couture designers?
A technique can be many things to be appreciated by high end luxury designers. It depends on the style and aesthetic the designer is looking for. ‘High-End’ luxury consists of many demands. It could be heavy embroidery using small amounts of fur for a haute couture brand, graphic intarsia in full fur for a commercial style, through to a fur trim for a high street coat.
However, I think it all starts with ‘good quality’. This is where you immediately see the quality of the fur, the shine, how the fur holds itself and stands up on end and the way it’s been treated at the dressing company. This can be the finish of natural fur – through to the quality of dyed colour and printing. Then comes the ‘craftsmanship’. The way in which the pelts have been worked with and put together by a furrier. From nailing, cutting placement and construction.
Is ‘luxury’ the right term these days or should it be replaced by a better one and what would that be?
I still believe that ‘LUXURY’ is a good word because it covers so many areas, platforms and stages within the development of a fur item. People need to ‘open’ their thought process of how they see luxury and what it means to them. Often people will just think about the end product they are picking up from the hanger and not the amount of work, craftsmanship and years of skills that have gone into it.
For example, ‘LUXURY’ to me isn’t about the price point or about the Brand (which of course it may be to someone). To me it’s about something that takes ‘time’, slowing down a process, stepping away from fast fashion. A process that can only be done by HAND, not skipping any stage of this process.
There is a reason why something has a high price point and it’s not just because it has a logo. It’s because it’s been made with love and years of training to get to the point where you can produce this type of ‘quality’. To me this is the real meaning of LUXURY.
How about Sport lux?
When we talk about ‘Sports Lux’ within the fur world, the first assumption would be that we were talking about fur trimmed down jackets or ski holiday wear. For this Fur Vision 2021 collection, we wanted this to be a focus, but to turn it a bit on it’s head and give this ‘genre’ a slightly different result.
The fashion and interior industry are very quickly evolving within it’s technical fabrics and finishing’s. Within this there’s a lot of developments using recycled plastics to result in a functional outcome that have such high demand within sportswear, including water resistant, breathable and flexible fabrics. All to deliver high performance. There is still this demand, but on top of this there’s also a demand for sustainability.
It’s interesting to research this topic because we work with a completely natural product, so our first though is that we don’t want to encourage the natural medium to be combined with a synthetic fabric. However, the truth is that we have such a big audience and a lot of people still want to have these sports fabrics. So, the ‘recycling’ aspect is another focus and a good way we can look into using synthetics, rather than producing new fabrics.
Today people want more and more to wear and style a sports aesthetic, but in a less casual, functional manner. This is the direction we have taken in our latest collection – combining some new technical fabrics and finishing in conjunction with removable fur accessories. The silhouettes of these items don’t reflect typical sports outerwear but have the finishing’s and essence in them.
Pushing experiments – the theme for the Fur Vision 2021
One of the themes for Fur Vision 2021 is “pushing experiments”. What does that mean and what new techniques are developed for this year’s collection?
Within Saga Furs’ annual collection, we always try to push the limits with what can be done with fur. It’s our job to experiment with new techniques, as well keeping up and developing new and improved results with updated technology.
This collection is made up of new experiments such as traditionally heat pleating, playing with the new ways to double face fur and new developments with plucked mink pelts. But also, we are challenging the external manufactures we use to push their limits in what they specialize in. For example, in digital printing, finishing’s, complex designs for knitted garments etc…
How do you create techniques that focus on no waste? How much fur can be saved with such techniques?
This is something that is put into consideration every time we make something. In fact, it is something that is ‘built into the brain’ of any furrier. Fur is an expensive material and we want to use as much of the pelt as possible.
For example, graphic and geometric designs are often very effective as they act like a puzzle and often you can move everything around and not waste anything. But of course, there is always some waste, so we try to think of other things how we can use it. Traditionally mink waste is taken and made into plates, this is a very traditional technique, but we try to think a little bit more out of the box. Last year we took waste and started to experiment how we could use it as down filling.
This year we have started to think about how we can use the same kind of waste throughout weaving, applique artworks, and designed plates.
How Covid-19 has affected on the Fur Vision 2021 presentation this year? Or has it affected?
Like everyone worldwide, we had to quickly come up with a solution of how we can make this happen. Like many brands, things have been pushed to go digital. Consisting of online showrooms, skype and zoom presentations and even virtual fairs.
This year we will be showing the collection in Paris, Milan and New York, but all markets will be able to see the collection, through a look book, catalogue and campaign shoot. Also, with the samples in hand, either attending a private showroom for appointment or having the sample sent.
I feel that it’s worked in our benefit to platform in a more digital way, as we get to reach more markets and brands this way. Also, support and inspire brands that are looking for inspiration on how to bring a brand image together.
Do you have any final words to all Fur Vision guests?
We just really hope you enjoy the collection, as much as we enjoyed bringing it together.
If you have any questions at all regarding the samples, please just contact.
Did you know?
Fur Vision brings fur-craft techniques to the fashion capitals of the world since 2000. The first Fur Vision was organized in New York and soon after also in other big cities of Europe and Asia. During the event furriers as well as designers examine the swatches and get inspiration as to how techniques might be used as building blocks for a fur garment or accessory. During the event guests not only get lots of inspiration but also help as to how techniques might be used in their new collections. If you want to learn more about craftsmanship in fur please read this article. If you want to learn more about sustainability at Saga Furs, please visit our site.