Fresh off the runway, our verdict on the season’s key fur trends
Fashion right now is a melting pot of references, uninhibited by constraints or notions of dress codes. This sense of ‘anything goes’ was front and centre during the AW20 shows, where Saga Furs worked with some of the industry’s most exciting names on imaginative fur pieces for the upcoming winter season.
We saw clear links to the samples and trends presented at Fur Vision 2020 with designers bringing the innovative new techniques into play to conjure some remarkable statement furs. From printed mink to the craftsmanship of hybrid pieces in fox and frills, we chart the major trends that played out on the international catwalks.
Echoing the abstract animal patterns we saw at Fur Vision 2020, designers pushed animal print to new frontiers. At Fendi, stylised leopard was layered over Saga® Silver Cross Mink, while Christian Cowan and Astrid Andersen used exciting new print techniques to create intriguing animalistic motifs. The roaring twenties are definitely here – in patchwork, print and intarsia.
Homespun meets high fashion across a number of runways, where the highly decorative samples from Fur Vision 2020 have inspired a series of folksy looks. There were lots of arts and crafts going on, with Cristiano Burani applying strips of metallic mink and icy fox to an overcoat spliced with mink tails and Art School showing gowns and coats constructed from recycled masses of flower-like frills and Saga® Fox. The look: unbridled creativity.
Loud and proud furs were everywhere, in unconventional colours and mostly worn with tonal looks underneath for extra statement factor. This is a trend that works particularly well on full furs, from ribbed mink at Sally LaPointe to Romeo Hunte’s chartreuse off-shoulder bombshell coat. And nothing brings colour to life quite like the way fur reflects light and captures dye intensity.
Another Fur Vision trend that got major traction at the AW20 shows was the idea of translating traditional wool patterns into fur to create surprising and hyper-luxurious effects. Supersized houndstooth popped up on Saga® Fox at Sergio Hudson, joined by tweed interpretations in Saga® Mink at Ralph & Russo, mink herringbone at Burnett New York and the tracing of a lapel seam on a black coat at Fendi using contrasting grey mink.
The classic mink coat keeps gaining momentum on and off the runways. Designers added clever little tweaks to make it still more covetable: Aliette sent out a two-tone shimmery Saga® Mink coat while Fendi wowed with an ultra-feminine Saga® Palomino Mink coat with puff sleeves and a cinched waist. The Italian fur house also put a sporty spin on brown mink by adding a go-faster yellow trim – a trend we saw at Fur Vision.
Calling all Dynasty fans: AW20 will be the season to unleash your inner Alexis Carrington Colby with some major power furs. Big shoulders with an even bigger attitude strutted down runways in movie star-worthy full fox coats with a nod to the forties via the eighties – see LaQuan Smith and Saint Laurent for white and mustard, respectively. For accessories, the screen siren fur stole got a new lease of life at Fendi as a soft ruffle, while Victor Glemaud gave us the mink turban of our diva dreams.
Images: Vogue runway & @wearefur